How to climb Mont Blanc
Pitch dark I set off on a convoy to what looks like the moon. Up to Dome du Gouter, down, how could we be going down? I feel strong, legs are good. Up, Vallot Hut, more up, down. Down again? What sort of mountain is this? The up keeps coming and my lungs and legs are not as confident as they were 2 hours ago. More up, all the while the air getting thinner and legs a little shakier. But I persist in taking steps and looking at the same 2 meters in front of me for hours on end trying to keep the slack off the rope but enough there so that I am not being pulled every 5 seconds. The summit can now be seen as the sun pushes the moon out of its way but that just makes things worse. Now we climb for hours and it doesn’t get any closer! And finally I am there. There on top of Mont Blanc, the highest point in Western Europe. How to climb Mont Blanc? Stubbornness!
In fact the ‘easy’ part is getting up. Getting down is much worse. You are tired and usually descend the entire mountain in one day or maximum two days. Here I will lay out the essentials of climbing Mont Blanc on the Normal Route. There are almost 20 different routes to climb Mont Blanc but the Normal Route in France is one of the most robust when it comes to weather and snowfall.
How to Climb Mont Blanc – Itinerary on the Normal Route
Mont Blanc can be climbed in 2 days (for normal people) but at least 3 is recommended and to be sure to summit 5 days would be great. Of course more days means it is more expensive. As long as you are generally fit, won’t give up and not afraid of heights then the physical part should not be an issue. By generally fit I mean you do some running (10 miles) or play sport at some sort of semi-competitive level. Don’t expect that if you play 5 a side soccer with your work buddies once a week and it is ‘competitive’ that you will race up the mountain!
The main issue with Mont Blanc is altitude. The summit of Mont Blanc is 4,810mtrs and the last hut, Gouter Hut, is at 3,863mtrs which is well above the altitude you can feel sick on and generally it is difficult to sleep. It doesn’t matter how fit you are if you climb too quickly then you may get altitude sickness and why a 2 day attempt is hard. I suffered from headaches near the summit but nothing too bad on a 3 day attempt. The layout of the mountain is as such
- Chamonix/Les Houche, 1,010mtrs: Get the cable car to Bellevue from Les Houche
- Bellevue, 1794mtrs: Get the train. Also leaves from the valley floor
- Nid D’Aigle, 2,372mtrs: Last train stop. Now you walk
- Tete Rousse, 3,187mtrs: 2.5-3hrs climb from Nid D’Aigle
- Refuge Du Gouter, 3,863mtrs (last hut): 2.5-3hr steep climb from Tete Rousse
- Refuge Vallot Hut, 4,363mtrs: This hut is on the way to the summit but is purely for emergency purposes.
- Summit of Mont Blanc, 4,810mtrs: A 3.5-5hr hike from Gouter Hut.
3 Day Attempt: This is what I did and does involve a relatively easy first two days with a lot of waiting around but then a long 12-14hr third day. The 3 day attempt does give you the option of summiting on the second day (see alternative) so you effectively have 2 chances if the weather is bad.
- Day 1:Chamonix/Les Houche to Tete Rousse
- Cable Car, train, then 2.5-3hrs hiking on snow and glacier skree. Total approx. 5hrs. Possible to leave at midday and still make the hut before dark
- Day 2: Tete Rousse to Gouter Hut
- A 2.5-4hr steep climb that has fixed cables in the rock to aid both ascent and decent. This can mean a lot of waiting around on this day.
- Day 2 Alternative: Tete Rousse to summit and then descend back to Gouter Hut leaving an easier third day decent but of course a much tougher day 2.
- Day 3: Gouter Hut to Summit (3-4hrs) and then all the way back to Les Houche (total of 12-14hrs)
2 Day Attempt: This is tougher than the 3 Day both physically and with the gain in altitude. There is no hanging around and it’s straight up and straight down.
- Day 1:Chamonix/Les Houche to Gouter Hut
- Cable Car, train, then 5-6hrs hiking. (see above)
- Day 2: Gouter Hut to Summit (3-4hrs) and then all the way back to Les Houche (total of 12-14hrs)
The 5 day attempt usually involves a little more waiting around to get used to the altitude but also may have a day of crampon and ice axe training.
How Much to Climb Mont Blanc?
Unless you are an experienced mountaineer and have climbed with ropes, crampons and ice-axes before then you really should have a guide. Many people die because of avalanches and not knowing what they are doing. One of the worst of recent years was 2008 where over 100 people died during the summer! On Mont Blanc the weather changes very quickly and visibility can disappear in minutes. So now that I have written a disclaimer I can’t be responsible!
Guide for 3 days: €1,100 includes everything except any rental equipment. Includes train, gondola, accommodation, breakfast and dinner at the huts for everybody. It does not include lunch or drinks.
Guide for 2 days: €850 with the same inclusions as above.
Cost to Climb Mont Blanc on your own
If you have no specialised equipment you can rent everything in Chamonix including boots to my surprise.
- Rent all equipment: ~€200 (crampons, boots, ice-axe, ropes, carabineers)
- Cost of Gondola and Train: A return ticket from Les Houches to Nid D’Aigle is €36. Just don’t lose the ticket!
- Cost of Accommodation: Tete Rousse cost €45 and Gouter Hut €70 per night and both are comfortable and clean. Gouter hut is new and is apparently a huge improvement over the old hut. The huts only open to public reservation 30days beforehand so you cannot book 4months in advance.
- Cost of Meals: Breakfast is €9 and an excellent 4 course dinner is €25.
- Extras: You will need to buy bottles of water as there is no running water for guests at the huts and they are €5 per 1.5litres so make sure to bring money with you. Any tea/coffee/beer is also extra. My guess would be to bring €100 per person for 3 days to be sure. Remember you will have to buy lunch unless you bring it with you.
- TOTAL: €519 for a 2 day trip
How did I find Mont Blanc?
Honestly I found the coming down the worst. You have come, seen and conquered and now you have nothing to strive for and so you just pound your way down the mountain with heavy legs just wishing it was over. From Gouter Hut to Tete Rousse is very dangerous on the way down. It is very steep and rocky and I was up since 2am and it was now 10am and we still had the most dangerous section to go. With there being so little snow and just rock, a little catch of your crampon on the rocks and you could go flying. This happened to me but lucky enough it was in a snowier section.
We headed for the summit on the third day which meant only Tete Rousse to Gouter Hut on the second day. This meant most of the day waiting around in Gouter. This was boring but of course it helps with the acclimatisation.
My legs weren’t sore at all really after the first two days as I suppose we only did 3hrs hiking on both days but on the 4th day back in Chamonix my legs were like two blocks of wood after the summit and 8hrs of decent the day before. It was a struggle getting up and down stairs. Those handrails came in very useful!
Incredible, this looks like such an experience! But also a real challenge. I’d be keen to do it, I love hiking, though unfortunately I’m not the best at it..
Yeah, it’s tough but well worth it.
Nice one Ross…
I was on Mt Blanc in 2003 with my wife, 15yr son + guide and we went the hard way from the train stop at Nid to the summit in one push. Nid up to the Gouter Hut, had a 90min rest & then on to the summit for sunset – Fantastic – no one on the mtn except us! Got back to the Gouter at midnite, slept 8hrs & then went down to Nid…..Shattered!
I’m going back in Aug ’15 with a mate for my 60th b’day and his 50th and planning to walk from the valley to summit in 2 or 3 nights……Valley to Prarion, then Prarion to Tete Rousse, T’ Rousse to Gouter or summit depending on everything.
Kevin
That sounds extremely tough. Your 15yr old son did well. Fair play on going back again. After we did it I imagined going from the valley but from the top of the gondola was enough for me for the moment. Maybe for my 50th!!
hi ross…would you kindly email me your mont blanc guide contact? thanks in advance!
No problem
Hi, Ross. I would also like to know a recommended guide contact if you would be so kind. Thank you very much in advance!
Hi Ross,
I climbed Kilimanjaro in aug last year and I’m looking for something to do this yr. Can you send on the details of the company you went with?
Kind regards,
Jerry.
Sure.
Hi Ross, I really enjoyed your description of the MT. Blanc Ascent, im planning to go in september this year, would also appreciate the contacts of the guide.
Sincerely
All done.
Same here, Ross.
Thanks for the article, would appreciate your reference.
I want climb Mt. Blanc in this year (June or July) can you guide me? send me full expedition plan on my mail. thanks in advance.
Sorry but you don’t want me as a guide. It wouldn’t end well!! I will send you the details of the company that can guide you that I used.
Hi Ross,
I’ll be in Chamonix on July 29th. Can you recommend a guide up Mont Blanc? I would like to go up/down in two-three days time. Best regards.
William Sittner
sittnerw@gmail.com
Sure. I used Ontopmountaineering.com and have found them very good and helpful
Hi Ross! Me and 2 friends are looking to climb blanc this summer. We all have some experience in mountains and are climber said but never anything so big. We have equipment but want Tom organise a guide to the summit.
Could you please message me details and such of a guide?
Much appreciated!!
Alex
Sent!
Hi,
I have similar questions. could you send me the details please.
Also I have climbed few peaks in Himalayas but never used Ice axe. How important is to learn Ice-axe and crampon use?
Sent. It is not important that you havent used either before. The crapons you would hardly notice as you just walk normally in the snow and then take them off when you are on rocks. The ice axe is only a precaution and you shouldnt need it (hopefully!)
Hi,
Also wondering about the guide company. Would you mind emailing the details?
Cheers.
Sure.
Hi Ross. Thanks for the write-up. We made it only as far as the couloir in 2012. Was too dangerous to cross. We were self guided but no guides were summitting that week. Too warm. We didn’t fancy it. Could you send on your guide recommendation please? I can’t afford a 6 day course but would consider having the support of a guide for two days.
Thanks.
Marty
No problem
Hi Ross,
I am looking to enter the world of mountaineering and wanted to know what would be a challenging, rewarding climb for a novice?
I am confident that I have fitness aspect based on what you have wrote here but don’t have any experience using crampons ice picks etc.
Would you advise taking on Mont Blanc or building up experience on smaller mountains first? if so, what would be a good mountain to climb?
kind regards
Hi, with a guide Mont Blanc is definitely doable for a novice but there are steep rocky sections that are dangerous, especially on the way down. I am no expert with crampons but would say it is doable for a novice. I wouldn’t do it without a guide though. If you are more risk averse there are other mountains close by in the Alps such as Gran Paradiso in Italy which is very close to Mt. Blanc and Chamonix through the Mt. Blanc Tunnel. This is a lower climb (4000mtrs) and less dangerous but still involves crampons, rope, ice-axe. it takes less time (1.5-2 days or 1 day if you are a real superman).
In summary as long as you can spend 8hrs on your feet hill walking and are not scared of heights you should be fine doing Mont Blanc with a guide. Doing other mountains first for experience is clearly better but guides are expensive so the more mountains you climb the more it costs.
Ross
Hi Ross,
I will be going to france next year in the month of june and i am planning to climb mont blanc..I am a certified mountaineer in india and i want to spend least money possible.So could you please help me with the possible itinerary and expenses.
I think I lay out the costs fairly clearly at the end of the post above. Even though you are a certified mountaineer I wouldn’t recommend climbing Mont Blanc on your own if you haven’t climbed it previously. It is possible and you could follow others as there will definitely be others going the same way. The main issue will be to book the refuges on the mountain as there is limited space. As mentioned in the post above doing it on your own is about €550 for 2 days and a guide is approx. €850 for 2 days.
Hi Ross, thank you for the sharing your experience. May I have the guide’s contact for hire please?
Many thanks once again.
Warmest regards,
Dawn
Hi vonderful storry pleas send me the companys name and web page please.thanks
Sure will
great story ross if you dont mind could you forward that companys web page to me that would be great hope to read more about other trips from you very exciting times
Yup
Hi, would u mind forwarding me the website of the guide company, nice write up, nice to hear someone not being too hysterical or blasé either, thanks
Niall
Hi Ross,
Your journey sounds awesome! Myself and a friend are going to do this next summer could you email me your guide and the company please?
Thank you
Ross
Hi Ross
Really useful article – please could you send me the company/ guide you used?
Also am interested in doing it in March – do you know if that’s off season?
Many thanks
David
Sent!
Hi Ross, can you also email to me the company guide that you use? thanks a lot.
Hey Ross, great inspiration for others this website…
I want to go next august. Could you please send me the contact of your guide?
Thanks in advanced.
Sure thing
Hi Ross, great write up. I’m going with a mate this summer. We are both experienced hikers, but never used crampons and an ice axe. I’m little bit apprehensive about the step up? How challenging are those sections where you need the crampons?
And if you could send on the details of guide company, cheers!
Thanks. Honestly the step up isn’t that hard. The crampons are really just needed so you wont slip in the snow. There is not that steep a section in the snow that you really need them. The steepest section by far is rocky and the crampons are more of a hindrance than anything on this section.
Don’t worry about the crampons. Stamina and fitness are the main challenge. If you have that then the crampons are no problem.
Hi
I contacted you a while ago asking for the details of the company you used, which you kindly sent, but then I lost the details! Would you mind sending them to me again please, thank you
Niall
Hi Ross, great article. Very informative. I’m planning a trip toward the latter part of 2016. I’m not sure if you mentioned in the article what time of year you were there or if you could give guidance on preferable time of year to attempt the summit?
Could you send me the details of the guide you used please. Much appreciated.
Hi Ross,
Myself and a friend are planning on summiting Mont Blanc next summer and this article has been extremely helpful! Just a quick question about the price of guides… For the 3 day summit would the price be 1,100 per person or do you divide that between the 2 people (so 550 per person for a guide). Thanks! Kevin.
Kevin, that price is per person. Expensive I know but from my own investigations when there, there is a set minimum that the guides unions (or whatever the official name is) which isn’t much below that.
Hi Ross
Could you give me the name of the company you went with and there website. Great experience for you I’m sure.
Thanks Shaun
Done
Hi, thanks for sharing the experience. Can you send details on guide ? I am planning to go in Aug.
Thanks for the comment.
The email is info@ontopmountaineering.com and the website is http://www.ontopmountaineering.com
Do you have any guides to recommend?
Email sent and see below comment
Hi Ross
Can you please forward me the details of the guides you used. Looking to do it next summer with my brother.
Thanks
Hi Ross
Could you also forward me the guide you used?
Thank you
Sent
Hey,
Beautiful blog and very informative too. I wanted to know which tour do you recommend and which tour did you take for 1100 Euros. Most are almost twice the price for three days.
I took the 2 day option because as you said the 3 days is very expensive as you are paying for the guide and his accommodation for an extra 24hrs.
Hi Ross,
very informative. A great article, realy. But I have a question. You wrote: Guide for 3 days: €1,100 includes……..breakfast and dinner at the huts for everybody.
Does it mean that the whole group pay the €1100? Or everybody pays the €1100?
Thank you
The price is €1100 per person if that wasn’t clear in the article
Hi Ross,
Good read and very useful…if you wouldn’t mind could you please send me details of the guide you used?
Thanks in advance.
Niall.
Gone
Hi Ross
I want to climb the Mont Blanc this year, and i have 3 year experience of climbing but not higher than 2000m, my exercise is running, fitness and Kyokushin Karate.
what is your opinion?
also can you please send me the details of the guide you used?
emal.hashemi419@gmail.com
Best regard
Firstly if you do some running, 10km +, and are generally fit then you should be alright. I would say that you definitely need to get some hikes/climbs in beforehand. Running for an hour is very different to climbing up and down for 5 or 6 or even 8hrs on Mont Blanc. You need to get used to being on your feet. Even if the nearest hill is only 1000mtrs then go up and down twice in the one day just to get used to it. That is important as on Mont Blanc the last day can be very tiring coming down so far at one time.
Not having been above 2000mtrs isn’t a big deal but it does mean you haven’t experienced any altitude really. Altitude sickness is only a possibility at around 2500m and above. But you cannot do any preparation for this anyway. Also, so you know, being fit or unfit makes no difference on whether you are prone to altitude sickness or not. The best thing is to take as long as practically possible to climb the mountain to acclimatize.
Hi Ross,
Very interesting read your MB adventure. Can you please let me know the details of your guide.
Thanks
Can you please sent me the guide information.
Regards
Manoj